South Sixshooter + Ancient Art In A Day

Photography

6.10.18

While not much of a climbing feat, tackling both South Sixshooter and Ancient Art in one day was certainly a long day. Colin, Blake and I had met up in Moab for some climbing. After a day flailing in Indian Creek, we decided to take an “easier” tower day. We had been looking at a few towers, but South Sixshooter and Ancient Art both stood out as achievable but cool options. Why not do both? Well, because they are really far apart. I bet we clocked over 6 hours of driving haha.

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ROUTE: South Sixshooter – South Face

After some navigational issues on the drive in, we parked near South Sixshooter tower at about 8am. Somehow we were the first ones there. The hike looked long, and the hiking to climbing ratio looked unfavorable.

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Looking up at South Sixshooter after summiting the first plateau and walking for a bit:

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Myself on the hike in, Photo: Colin Trettle

I lead the first pitch, which was a pretty cruiser with maybe one or two moves of 5.6. I think I placed only 3 pieces. Colin then lead us on a horizontal, move the belay style pitch through a slot and ledge system.

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Looking back through the horizontal slot pitch at North Sixshooter:

The final pitch started with a tricky 5.7 hand crack, then moved up over broken rock to a final crux just before the summit. I had seen comments that the final mantle move was comically rated as 5.6d. To me, and others commenting on Mountain Project, this move felt more like 5.8 or 5.9 and was not really an ideal spot to fall haha.

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Colin leading the start of the final pitch (5.7):

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Some summit glory:

Colin (left), Blake (Right)

Myself (left), Colin (Right):

Myself:

We rapped down and hurried back to the car, eager to get to Ancient Art.

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Hiking out:

We pulled up to Ancient Art around 5pm. We ran into some other climbers on the trail who told us they had arrived at 11am only to wait in line all day as a party of 5 goat rodeo’d their way up. We arrived as the last party was leaving, perfect timing!

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ROUTE: Ancient Art Stolen Chimney

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Look at that thing!

We solo’d the first pitch (5.7 in the guidebook, 5.4 on mountain project) which consisted of ledgy mud piles and then roped up on a large ledge. I lead the steep 5.9A0 pitch, using my draws as holds when needed. Climbing it free felt like it might have been pretty hard for 5.10.

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Belay at the top of pitch 2:

Colin hopped on lead for the cool 5.8 mud chimney, which had an interesting bulge halfway up, and seemed to run out of pro toward the top.

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Blake starting up the chimney, with Castleton Tower visible in the background:

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Blake at the interesting bulge in the chimney:

Colin then brought us up the next short 5.7A0 pitch where we finally laid eyes on the last, and oh so glorious last pitch:

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DAMN!

This view not something I will soon forget! I walked the sidewalk, hopping over the gap and landing at the mantle you always hear about – man, that thing is freaking high! I went for the beached whale technique and that worked well. This move probably was mainly intimidating because of the incredible exposure, and runout to a bad F2 fall (which would best case result in a mega swing against the rock, and rip your belayer into the anchors). The first bolt comes after the mantle, and the climbing from here was tricky 5.9. The summit was pretty surreal!